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Like people, cats have different interests, personalities and bad habits. In the case of stealing, some cats will nip anything they can get their paws on – with some even hoarding their treasures in a special place. There are a number of reasons why cats might steal, and not all of them are negative. Attention seeking The primary reason for cats stealing is that at one point or another, the behaviour got them attention. This is not to say they’re necessarily crying out for attention, but they know that it’s a sure-fire way to either get a laugh or a frustrated sigh. Either way, the fuss created by the stealing may encourage your cat to continue doing this. In this case, it’s best to ignore the behaviour and simply retrieve the object and put it back in its place. In the case of food, making it less accessible or covering it without admonishing your cat is a smart, non-attentive way of showing your cat that you know about their behaviour but will not acknowledge or praise it. Just a bit of fun For other cats, particularly kittens, stealing is seen as a form of play. The process of stealing (especially food) is used to simulate their natural instinct to stalk, pounce and eat their prey. It’s important to provide other avenues and objects to get this response. Make sure your cat has access to toys and balls of different sizes, colours and textures. These will take their attention away from stealing everyday objects around the house. Use these toys to play with your cat, so that they get the necessary stimulation and attention from you. Creating comfort The third possibility is that your cat’s stealing behaviour is a stress management tactic. Stealing things can be an attempt to get your attention, and get you to inject more play time in your day – cats are sensitive to your work life balance. Particularly if your cat is stealing useless objects and hoarding them, this might be happening in an attempt to create a sense of comfort or familiarity in an uncomfortable or unfamiliar situation. In this case, particularly if the behaviour is being compulsive, urgently reach out to your cat’s vet or look into seeing a cat behaviorist.    Photo by Biel Morro on Unsplash

Bedtime for you doesn’t always mean bedtime for your cat. Cats are naturally nocturnal, so just as we are about to hit the hay, they are ready to come alive. Cats tend to do much of their napping during the day, sleeping for as long as four to five hours at one time – and this may be repeated throughout the day (what a life). As a result, being active at night and exploring your furniture (and curtains) is perfectly natural. This kind of behaviour doesn’t mean your cat is ‘acting out’ or deliberately trying to deprive you of sleep – he’s just being a cat. However, if this behaviour is disruptive or destructive to the home (and your happiness), there are some steps you can take to bring their natural rhythm more in line with your own. Get active One of the things you can do is make sure your cat is more active during the day. Engaging toys, scratching posts, and outdoor spaces provide a world of possibilities for your cat to get active. Alternatively, spend some time engaging in purposeful play with your cat after supper, just before bed – as this will help them release some of that pent up energy and exercise their brain and body. The best case scenario is to try mimic your cat’s natural cycle – which is to eat, clean themselves and then sleep. As a result, it’s also important not to feed your cat too late, as this will give them the extra boost of energy that sees them running around while you try to get some sleep.   Photo by Michel Burdieri on Unsplash

Whether it’s an open suitcase, an old box, your brand new black shirt or your open laptop, cats seem to have a habit of sitting in or on whatever they can find. Why does my cat like to sit inside things? It’s all down to basic instincts. Most cats are looking for somewhere to hide when they sit in things. While your little house cat may never have experienced the wild, they are responding to a species-specific desire to see their environment and potential prey, without being seen. Think inside the box Allowing your cat to find new places to sit actually enhances their enjoyment of their home life. There’s no need to invest in expensive ‘cat caves’ – any old box will do. Even better – hide a toy in the box for your cat to find. What about electronics? This one has nothing to do with animal instincts. Instead, cats often sit on electronics like laptops, gaming consoles and keyboards for their warmth (just like the hood of your car). For some cats, it’s also about the images on the screen, which they find stimulating – even though they don’t receive the image and information in the same way humans do. If your cat sits on an electronic device you’re busy using, that’s less about the warmth and more about getting your attention. Make sure there are no dangling or exposed wires (and definitely don’t let them bite into them) so there’s no danger of your cat hurting themselves. As for them sitting on your clothes… invest in a lint roller.   Photo by Chewy on Unsplash

There’s nothing worse than coming home to a puddle of cat pee (or worse), next to, instead of inside the litter box. And when it starts to become a habit, it can be a sign that your cat has rejected the litter box entirely. Why would my cat to reject the litter box? Cats are fussy beings, and there are a range of reasons as to why your cat won’t go like they used to. One of the primary reasons is cleanliness. If your cat doesn’t believe the litter, the box, or the spot you’ve placed it in, is not up to their standards, they will not use it. This is not the case for all cats though. Particularly where older cats or tiny kittens are concerned, it could be that the box is too difficult to climb into, or that the type of litter used does not suit their sensitive paws. Anxiety, stress or illness can also be contributing factors. Cats who are uncomfortable often change their habits to signal their discomfort to their owners. Keep it clean If your cat is concerned about cleanliness, make sure that the litter box is thoroughly cleaned and changed out more frequently. Remove soiled litter at least once a day and wash the entire box at least once a week. Ideally, a natural smelling cleaner should be used, and ammonia-based cleaner should be avoided, because of how similar it smells to cat urine. Give them more options Invest in more litter boxes. A useful rule of thumb is to get one more litter box than you have cats. If you have one cat, get two litter boxes, if you have two cats, get three. This allows you to swap out the boxes more easily, and avoid cats showing up to a litter box that has already been used by another. Easy access and privacy Creating a sense of privacy is also key. Cats don’t like to be seen visiting the loo (it’s too undignified). In the case of older cats, it may be time to switch to a shallower option. Look for a litter box that is very easy for your cat to climb into, and place it in an area which is easily accessible from all sides When to consult a vet If you suspect that anxiety or physical illness might be a cause, consult a vet to discuss your cat’s behaviour. More frequent urination, urinating outside the litter box, or any signs of strain when urinating can be signs of a urinary tract infection, which will need to be seen to in order to alleviate any pain or discomfort.   Photo by Tran Mau Tri Tam ✪ on Unsplash

Every cat is different, but you can learn a lot about their mood by paying close attention to their body language. From a fuzzy raised tail, to subtle twitching of the ears, these signs are more than just unique personality traits – they’re essential ways in which our cats communicate with us, and each other. While cats can’t always be predictable (they love to keep an air of mystery), here’s a basic guide to what your cat’s body language is telling you: Friendly A friendly cat demonstrates its mood with alert, blinking eyes and ears pointed forward. While meowing can be a complaint or demand (for an extra helping of PAMPER), most of the time, intermittent meowing is a sign that your cat wants to communicate with you. Spread out whiskers and gentle nuzzling is also a sign that your cat is looking to spend some quality time with their favorite human. Unhappy/Uncomfortable We all know cats can be fussy, and sometimes even diva-like, but it is essential that we read and respect their body language. When your cat is unhappy, they are not interested in any kind of contact, and may even hiss or growl at you. Cats do not want to be picked up when they are in a bad mood, and will sometimes arch their back and the hair on their back and tail will be raised. This is a sign of irritation and is often accompanied by slightly dilated pupils and flattened eyes. Some cats exhibit the same behaviour when they are sick or hurt. If your cat is acting uncharacteristically for an extended period of time, consult your vet. Relaxed Besides being stretched out in a sunny patch, there are a few clues which can help you tell if your cat is relaxed. In addition to relaxed, pointed down ears, cats also tend to make their tails visible. While a curled up position may sometimes indicate fear, a relaxed cat is likely to allow you to approach them, with whiskers fanned out instead of being pulled back. If your cat shows you it’s belly, consider this the ultimate compliment. Cats’ natural instincts tell them to always keep their tummies protected, so if they’re sleeping belly-up or rolling on the floor in front of you, they are completely relaxed and trusting in your presence. (Tip: As tempting as it may be – it’s not always a good idea to go in for a tummy rub. Those instincts are strong, and could get you a swift swipe or even a bite.) Scared Anything from an encounter with another cat, to a loud noise or an unfamiliar environment can make for one very fearful cat. While a scared cat may not always show its fear overtly, there are subtle clues. They are particularly sensitive to noise or sudden movements, and are likely to avoid you, even if they are generally quite open or loving. Dilated pupils and flattened ears are also tell-tale signs, with your cat’s tail pressed close to their body. Playful This is by far the best mood for your cat to be in. Rolling side to side, stretched out on their back or pawing at you gently, these are clear behavioral signs that your cat is keen for a little tumble. This is the ideal moment to bring out a cat toy – or that red laser light.   Photo by Matteo Vella on Unsplash

While a kitten’s gentle nibbles may seem cute at first, biting can turn into a seriously bad habit. In kittens, biting is learned from playing and interacting with others in the litter. In this case, the idea is not to hurt, but is rather a form of mock sparring or play-hunting that helps kittens bond with their siblings and with their mothers. In the first two weeks to a month, kittens tend to bite very gently, and are unlikely to sink their teeth in unless they feel threatened. As cats get older, biting is often a sign of fear or anger. It’s important not to tease your cat, or encourage them to retaliate, as this is more threatening and irritating than fun. It will make them use biting to signal a need for space or distance (can you blame them?). Don’t engage Play-fighting (without the use of toys) only encourages your cat to engage with you aggressively. If a cat bites your hand or foot, it’s best not to engage. This deters them from thinking you’ll engage in games which involve biting. One of the best ways to do this is to stop touching your cat immediately if they bite you. Just walk away and remove eye contact. When they’re too rough, tell them Another tactic is to say ‘Ouch!’ loudly whenever your cat bites you (even if it isn’t sore). When cats play with each other and one of them cries out, it signals that the play has gotten too rough. So by vocalizing when your cat hurts you, you can help them learn the difference between play and too-rough-play. Under absolutely no circumstances should you ever retaliate to a bite with physical punishment – this will only make your cat scared of you and the biting will continue as a form of self-defense. Praise your cat for progress When your cat seems comfortable with the leash, start to practice walking together. Place your cat down in one spot and slowly walk to the end of the leash. If they start to follow you, reward them with a treat. If they don’t respond, pull extremely gently on the leash and wait patiently for your cat to start following. Every time your cat follows you, stop to reward them with some stroking, and a treat if necessary. This process can be a long one, so just have patience – and lots of treats. Toy tactics When playing with your cat, always use a toy instead of your feet or hands. Toys can be great wrestling partners for cats and are a great alternative for them to redirect their extra energy toward. Cats that don’t have other cats to play with can benefit from having a stuffed animal close to their own size as a ‘play mate’. Is something wrong? If biting or aggression are new behaviours for your cat, this could be indicative of another underlying issue such a physical pain or discomfort. Generally, this kind of troubled biting is accompanied by low growling, flattening of the ears and in serious cases, even some hissing. If you’re worried, take your cat to the vet to have them assessed, in case something is seriously wrong.  

It’s an old myth that cats can’t be trained to walk on a leash. Not only is it very possible, and comfortable (if approached correctly), it opens a new set of opportunities for your cat to get active, and spend quality time with you in a safe, controlled way. Here are five steps to help you start training your cat to walk on a leash: Make sure your cat is comfortable The most important part of the training process is getting your cat used to the harness. Placing the harness somewhere visible is key – so that your cat can observe it, examine it and play with it. It’s best to keep the leash around the house for a few days so when you attempt to put it on, your cat is already used to it. It is best to try putting the harness on just before mealtime, or when you offer your cat a treat, to create a positive association. Take it slow Don’t try and attach a leash to the harness in the first few days. Only once your cat is fully comfortable walking around with the harness on, attach the leash and let your cat walk around the house as usual. At this point, hold the leash loosely and let your cat walk around with you behind them for short periods (don’t push it!). Praise your cat for progress When your cat seems comfortable with the leash, start to practice walking together. Place your cat down in one spot and slowly walk to the end of the leash. If they start to follow you, reward them with a treat. If they don’t respond, pull extremely gently on the leash and wait patiently for your cat to start following. Every time your cat follows you, stop to reward them with some stroking, and a treat if necessary. This process can be a long one, so just have patience – and lots of treats. Practice consistently Before you consider taking your cat for a walk, practice consistently indoors, and gradually move to the garden or outside area. Keep repeating the process, extending the distance bit by bit. Make sure your cat is not tired, hungry or irritable when you attempt a practice session, as they will lose interest and start to view walks as a chore rather than a fun, bonding experience. Time to head outdoors If you’re sure your cat is comfortable walking on a leash, try taking them beyond the house and garden. At first, there may be some hesitation as you head into uncharted territory, and your cat might seem uneasy or distracted so it’s very important to be patient and give them the time they need to feel comfortable. Start your walks in a quiet area where your cat can explore without feeling rushed or threatened by anything around them. While they may never be as obedient on walks as dogs, walking your cat can be a great bonding experience – and a safe, supervised adventure for cats who spend most of their time indoors.   Photo by Bodi.raw on Unsplash

We’re thrilled to have launched PAMPER Dry food in-store, and we can’t wait for your cat to try it (that’s if they haven’t got their paws on it already). However, whoever said change is as good as a holiday, never tried to change a cat’s dietary habits. We know how fussy cats can be and how sensitive they are to the slightest changes in their routine. That’s why the experts at MARTIN&MARTIN have been working around the clock to ensure a smooth transition as changes to PAMPER in-store. With a new locally-based manufacturing process, we have made every effort to try and match the dry food flavour profile as closely as possible along with some necessary tweaks to the recipe. This is all to ensure your cat stays happy, healthy and falls in love with the new food. Here’s are our tips on how to make the transition from FRISKIES to PAMPER as smooth as possible for your fussy feline: Take it slow – change can take time A gradual transition will make things easier for your cat. Over a seven-day period, slowly decrease the amount of FRISKIES food in their bowl while increasing the amount of PAMPER. The first day should be purely FRISKIES, and then the second day, mix in a little bit of PAMPER into their bowl. By day four and five, the products should be in similar quantities, and by the end of the week, your cat should be feeling comfortable eating a full bowl of PAMPER. Get hands on with the transition Consider hand-feeding your cat some PAMPER dry food, at least initially. Cats are likely to trust what you feed them directly, so whoever is doing the hand-feeding must have a good relationship with your cat. Be careful not to feed your cat too much at a time, as the sheer amount can be a turn off. The process may take some time for fussy eaters, but it will be worth it. Worrying about your cat’s favourite FRISKIES pouches? Don’t. The recipe is staying exactly the same and the only thing changing is the name on the packaging.   Photo by Felice Wölke on Unsplash

We all know cats like to take the lead on keeping themselves clean, but that’s not always the case when it comes to their teeth. Like humans, cats have very sensitive mouths, and looking after oral health is very important to their overall well-being. Diet plays a big role in the health of your cat’s teeth. Dry, crunchy foods, like PAMPER’s dry foods, help to keep their teeth clean. While your cat is chewing, the particles and friction from the dry food scrape against the surface of the teeth – just like a human’s toothbrush. Something’s fishy… While dry food takes care of every day dental health, there are some signs your cat may need a little extra help. While it’s normal for your cat to have slightly fishy-smelling breath, seriously foul breath is cause for concern. Another red flag is any evidence of drooling. While this is reasonably common in dogs, in cats it can indicate a gum ailment. Regular cleaning One of the ways to prevent problems with oral health is to take more regular care of your cat’s teeth. It’s important to get your cat into the habit of having their teeth cleaned from when they are kittens, as older cats can be particularly resistant (to put it lightly). Ideally, cats should have their teeth cleaned twice-weekly to help prevent dangerous and painful dental diseases. It also ensures any small issues don’t become serious because they’ve been left unattended. Get started The best place to start is to consult your vet and ask for a demonstration on how to clean your cats’ teeth safely. If your cat resists, hisses or bites when you attempt to clean their pearly whites, it is best to schedule in regular sessions with the vet and leave it to the professionals.   Photo by Steffi Pereira on Unsplash

Taking on a cat as a fur kid and companion is not always easy. Cats can be very strong-willed about their needs, and it’s important as a cat owner to priorities their well being over their preferences – and demands. Where health is concerned, ignoring your cat’s weight problem is never an option. A cute, fat cat may be nice to look at and cuddle, but in the long term, overweight or obese cats can suffer physically, mentally and emotionally. How do I know if my cat is overweight? One of the first signs that your cat has a weight problem is not being able to feel their ribs. Additionally, if your cat struggles to walk or run, or is unusually sluggish, these may be indicators that their weight is already taking its toll. Obesity in cats can make everyday activities more difficult and less enjoyable, and ultimately shorten their lifespan. Diabetes, an under performing immune system and problems with digestion also come with the territory – but can be avoided with a switch to a healthier diet for your cat. Remember, you are in control of this. What can I do about my cat’s weight? If your cat has put on a lot of weight, or has begun to display the above symptoms, the first step is to lower their calorie intake. This can be achieved by switching to a lower-calorie cat food, offering smaller portions of dry or wet food during the day, and if you feel you need more support, approaching your vet for a specific weight management program. Every cat’s needs are different, and depending on the severity of the situation, and the causes, your vet’s involvement will be crucial to providing a long-term diet plan which protects the health, well-being and happiness of your cat.   Photo by svklimkin on Unsplash